An Ultra High Definition 4K Driving Tour of the Scenic Drive through Big Bend Ranch State Park.
For today’s drive we are going to Big Bend Ranch State Park! This is the largest state park in Texas! We will be taking FM 170, also known as Camino del Rio or River Road. FM 170 is considered to be the most scenic road in Texas.
The drive is going to start in Presidio, Texas and follow FM 170 through Big Bend Ranch State Park to Lajitas, Texas and then continue on into the Terlingua Ghost Town.
FM 170 River road exists almost solely within the state park. It follows along the edge of the Rio Grande river. On the other side of the river is Mexico. FM 170 is 115 miles long, running from Candelaria, Texas to Study Butte. This scenic drive will really give you a feel for what West Texas is like. This is a very desolate area with large wide open spaces. The river is green and low because it had been very dry. There aren’t many other cars on the road, but the one that are there are people going camping or kayaking.
Presidio, Texas
Presidio, Texas has a population of about 4,500 people. Like many border towns in Texas it has a corresponding town in Mexico. On the other side of the river is Ojinaga, which is in the Mexican state of Chihuahua. Ojinaga has a population of about 28,000 people.
History
This area has been inhabited for over 10,000 years as people were drawn to the water in the local rivers. There are numerous rock paintings and remnants of prehistoric communities throughout the state park. In 1200 AD permanent settlements were constructed in the area as people moved to a more stationary agricultural lifestyle. They built up structures known as pueblos and lived in small communities.
In 1535 Cabeza de Vaca arrived with other Spaniards and called the area La Junta de las Cruces, but the name later changed into La Junta de los Rios on account of the rivers that come together in the area. Water is of extreme importance in West Texas. The name later changed to El Presidio del Norte after a military garrison was built there. During the Mexican Revolution General Pancho Villa spent a lot of time in Ojinaga and occasionally Presidio. Presidio was incorporated as a municipality in 1980.
Big Bend Ranch State Park – not to be confused with the almost directly adjacent Big Bend National Park – was established in 1988. The park is partially in Presidio County and partially in Brewster County. Prior to the establishment of the park the property was part of several different ranches over the years, and at one point was one of the biggest ranches in the United States. Candelilla plants grow in the area and they were used to make wax which was used to waterproof materials during World War I.
Lajitas, Texas
On the other side of the park is Lajitas, Texas. Lajitas is an unincorporated community in Brewster County between Big Bend Ranch State Park and Big Bend National Park. It is about 20 miles from the national park, with the also unincorporated Terlingua ghost town in between.
Lajitas made national news when they elected a beer drinking goat named Clay Henry III as the town mayor. This was done as a joke, the town is unincorporated and does not actually have a mayor.
Terlingua, Texas
After we pass through Lajitas we will get into Terlingua. Terlingua is a ghost town, that now exists mostly as a tourist destination. In the late 1800s and early 1900s mines were built in order to mine for cinnabar that was used for making mercury. During the time that the mines were operating the town had about 2,000 people, its population is estimated to be 58 today.
Terlingua ghost town is very well known for having a very interesting historical cemetery where Dia de los Muertos is celebrated and is often photographed by tourists. The oldest grave in the cemetery is from 1903.
Terlingua was also well known due to automotive designer Carroll Shelby having a ranch in the area.
Visiting Big Bend Ranch State park
Big Bend Ranch State Park is in a very remote location. However, once you make the trip out there are many things to do, so it is very worthwhile to go visit. The park is stunningly beautiful.
Day use fees for the park are $5 for people over the age of 13. It is important to make a reservation in advance to make sure that you can enter the park.
The State Parks Pass is $70 per year which provides unlimited entry to all Texas State Parks for the pass holder and their guests.
Activities in Big Bend Ranch State Park
Hiking Trails, Mountain Biking Trails and Horse Trails
There are lots of trails throughout the park with different types of terrain. Some of the trails are designated as hiking only due to the difficulty of the hike, but many trails are open to horses, mules, and mountain bikes. Deferent trails have different things to offer such as nature trails and geology trails or better views. Madrid Falls is a popular destination for adventurous hikers because it is a waterfall in the middle of the desert.
When going on a trail it is imperative to follow proper safety precautions. This is a very remote area. You must bring with you proper safety gear for your activity such as extra water, sunblock, spare bike tubes, a map. Also be aware animals that live in the park include rattlesnakes and javelina.
Four Wheel Drive Roads
There are 70 miles of unmaintained dirt roads that you can drive on if you are in an appropriate high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle that can handle it.
Stargazing
West Texas is well known for stargazing. The skies are big and open and have lots of stars to see. There is very little light pollution because there are no cities around and there are very few buildings with lights. The towns that are around the park have strict rules about regulating light pollution and have made adaptations such as specialized traffic and street lights to protect the dark skies.
Big Bend Ranch State Park has been designated as a gold tier Dark Sky Park. The park recommends stargazing along the River Road at West Contrabando Trailhead, The Hoodoos, and Big Hill. We pass all of these locations on the drive, but during daylight.
Exploring History
This area has been inhabited by people for thousands and thousands of years. This area is rich with cultural artifacts. While hiking it is possible that you will encounter evidence of prehistoric life such as rock paintings, arrowheads, or pottery. Archaeological artifacts are protected by law.
Sauceda Historical District has lots of buildings from when the land was a ranch. You can walk around and explore them.
Nature and Birding
There are lots of birds and animals that live in the park as well as unique plants. There has been an effort to get the plants and animals back to what they naturally were before the area was used as ranch land, especially bringing back the bighorn sheep. There are lots of types of snakes and lizards, including the rattlesnake. There are bears, but they are uncommon and there are also mountain lions and javelinas to be aware of. Other common animals are road runners, coyotes, deer, and different types of rabbits.
Bird watching is a popular activity in the park. Park rangers can provide you with information on the local birds and there are many guides available bout the birds in the park. Geology
Big Bend Ranch State Park is a dream for anyone interested in geology. There are a lot of interesting rock formations to look at. This area has long been a point of interest for mining and people seeking out minerals.
River Access
You can access the river from several places. We will pass by some of the river access points during this drive along FM 170. You can fish, raft, or canoe in the river.
Tour Guides and Other Outfitters
There are a number of local businesses provide guided tours or supplies to people visiting Big Bend Rand State Park. During the drive you will see some of them on the road. Angell Expeditions is always highly recommended. The park maintains a list of officially recommended service providers here.
Lodging in Big Bend Ranch State Park
Big Bend Ranch State Park offers both campsites and a bunkhouse. For either option be sure to reserve your spot online prior to arriving at the park. You should also reserve your day use passes in advance, to make sure that you will not be turned away from the park due to it being at capacity. Reservations can be made here. https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/park-reservation-information/reservations.
Camping
The state park offers primitive campsites that range in cost from $10 – $16, the campsites that allow horses charge an extra $2 per horse. Campsite fees are in addition to the cost of the daily use entrance fee for the park. Some of them offer picnic tables and fire rings and designated areas to put your tent. There are no restroom facilities, water, or electrical hook ups. Gathering firewood is prohibited. You must haul out all waste. Yes, all of it. Some of the sites are drive in and some of the sites are hike in.
If you are going to camp in the park check in with the ranger station to get a permit and go over the rules and safety guidelines.
Sauceda Bunkhouse
Each bed in the bunkhouse costs $35 per night, in addition to the daily use entrance fee for the park. The beds are in a shared dormitory, and it is separated by men’s area and women’s area. There is no heating and no air conditioning, but the building does have electricity and toilets.
Lodging Near Big Bend Ranch Sate Park
If you are not going to stay in the park itself, there are several options for staying outside of the park. The parks are getting more and more popular in recent years though, and the hotels tend to fill up quickly and can be surprisingly expensive especially for the quality. Most of them will be in the area around the Terlingua ghost town. If you are planning a trip during the busy season, such as Thanksgiving or Spring Break, book your room far in advance because places will become unavailable.
There are three towns further north from the park, Marfa, Alpine, and Marathon that also will have hotels. If you are unable to get a hotel room in the Terlingua area, you can look at those towns. Marfa in particular is a great place for tourists to check out, but pay close attention to how far away from the park these towns really are. For example from Marfa to Presidio is 60 miles, adding an extra hour at least to an already long day at the park.
When selecting a hotel near Big Bend Ranch State Park or Big Bend National Park it is important to read the reviews and make sure that it is a legitimate and reputable hotel. Due to being in an unincorporated area Terlingua does not have the regulations on hotels that most city’s have, and unfortunately unscrupulous hoteliers have taken advantage of travelers.
Presidio
Riata Inn: A standard issue motel with affordable pricing.
Lajitas
Lajitas Golf Resort: This hotel is probably the one that is recommended the most outside of the parks. It is in an absolutely ideal location because it is almost adjacent to the state park, and very close to both Terlingua ghost town and to Big Bend National Park. The property is well maintained and also used as an event space.
In the above video from this drive the last few minutes is driving from Lajitas to Terlingua.
Terlingua
There are a number of different hotels in Terlingua. Many of them are a combination of RV park and hotel. Here are some options.
Paisano Village RV Park and Inn
There are also some places to stay that are a little bit more on the camping side of things such as Basecamp Terlingua.
Getting to Big Bend Ranch State Park
From Marfa: Take Route 67 to Presidio then take scenic route FM 170 to the park. My video of the drive along Route 67 from Marfa to Presidio is here.
From Alpine: Take 118 to Terlingua, then take FM 170 to the park.
From Terlingua: Take FM 170 to the park.
From Fort Davis: If you want to enter the west side of the park, take 67 to Presidio, if you want to enter the east side of the park take 118 towards Terlingua.
Things to do Near Big Bend Ranch State Park
Big Bend National Park
Big Bend National Park is very close to the state park. Many people split their time between the two parks. The national park has many of the same activities as the state park such as camping and hiking trails. The Santa Elena Canyon is a great area to explore.
Terlingua Ghost Town
Starlight Theater Restaurant is a must try restaurant in Terlingua. It is a converted theater and very popular dinner spot. Be prepared for a wait.
Terlingua Trading Company is a gift shop next door to the Starlight Theater Restaurant. You can see both of them at the very end of the driving tour video. There are public bathrooms available outside the gift shop and in addition to a wide range of interesting souvenirs they also sell cool drinks. They had some Dublin soda available too. On the other side of the parking lot there’s some picnic tables. So if you packed a lunch you can get a nice cold drink in the store and sit a while outside.
Espresso y Poco Mas has a wide range of coffee drinks available. Start a long day in the park nice and energized.
West Texas
If you are spending more time in West Texas you should also check out Marfa, Texas and Fort Davis, Texas which is where the McDonald Observatory is located. There is also a well known art installation called Prada Marfa in Valentine, Texas.